Archive for ◊ February, 2002 ◊

13 Feb 2002 Culture Shines in the Florida Keys
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An aerial shot of the Florida Keys shows a necklace of delicate islands seemingly dropped from above into azure blue waters. A tiny road winds 110 miles through the islands, with bridges connecting one to another. All seems quiet below.

What visitors may not realize, however, is that the Keys hold a treasure of cultural gems to be enjoyed by all. So when you’ve finished snorkeling, diving, fishing or lazing in the sun, discover the diverse culture and heritage that the Keys have to offer. Our treasure hunt begins to the north, in Key Largo.

The Gallery at Kona Kai is one such gem. Tucked back off of US 1 in Key Largo, visitors will discover a lush oasis with guest cottages and an art gallery that rivals those found in metropolitan cities. Proprietors Joe and Ronnie Harris, originally executives from New York City, visited Key Largo and fell in love with the area. They bought the property that is now Kona Kai, developed an exclusive adults-only resort and decided to bring the arts to the area. In doing so, the open-aired Gallery at Kona Kai proudly displays works of international artists from Michigan to France to Israel and beyond. A stay at Kona Kai will rejuvenate the mind and soul.

The Tavernier Hotel, founded in 1928, is a Key Largo institution. The hotel survived the widespread destruction that resulted from the 1935 hurricane that swept through the Keys. The American Red Cross took over the hotel to tend to those injured and left homeless by the devastating storm. Once the Red Cross moved out, the building was used as a movie theater, and then converted into the hotel as it remains today. Check in for a romantic stay, or enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner in the tropical courtyard of the hotel’s Copper Kettle Restaurant.

An artists’ village to the south on Islamorada, The Rain Barrel should be a definite stop on everyone’s trip to the Keys. More than 10 artists create their wares in this shaded haven. Wander through the studios and workshops to watch artists from throughout the country work at their crafts, and learn how they made the move to such a tropical climate. Innovative pottery, ironworks, paintings and clothing are all available to take home to remember your time in the Keys.

If you blink while driving along the Seven-Mile Bridge in Marathon, you’ll pass right above Historic Pigeon Key. From 1908 to 1935, this tiny island – just five acres – was home to workers who were building the Overseas Railway to Key West and their families. In its heyday, bungalow-style homes lined the streets; eight of those homes and operations buildings still stand today, serving as a museum, dorms, classrooms, a kitchen and Pigeon Key Foundation offices. An extensive center for marine science research and education now resides on the island, and each spring the foundation hosts an eclectic art festival to raise money to maintain Pigeon Key.

Continuing south, US 1 dead-ends into Key West. More than 1.4 million people visit the southernmost point of the United States every year, and it’s easy to see why. With waters teeming with marine life, sunsets that take your breath away, and locals with tall tales to tell, Key West is a marvelous vacation destination.

Step back in time and check in to the Wyndham Casa Marina Resort. Built in 1921 by railroad tycoon Henry Flagler, the original hotel building remains, surrounded by modern additions that maintain the charms of yesteryear. Boasting one of the only sandy beaches in Key West, the Casa Marina entices guests with a crisp, cool pool and massages beachside, or frozen margaritas served at the chaise lounges.

Locals and visitors alike are treated quarterly to the magical sounds of Mozart, Bellini and Verdi. The renowned Key West Symphony Orchestra, conducted by Sebrina María Alfonso, extends invitations to guest musicians throughout the country to converge upon the island to perform various compositions. In addition to weekend performances, the symphony conducts classes and seminars throughout the week for the Keys’ school children. International performers are invited to join the symphony, converging to give an astounding performance. I was delighted to hear soprano Junko Watanabe sing notes seemingly higher than the stars, and Jin Hi Kim’s demonstration on the Korean komungo was enthralling. Afterwards, musicians greeted those in attendance at the decadent Hot Tin Roof on Duval Street.

With all of the cultural sites to see in the Florida Keys, visitors will want to plan even more time to spend in this tropical destination. Take your time to leisurely make your way south to Key West, and discover all of the gems that the Keys have waiting for you.

12 Feb 2002 The Keys to Good Eatin’
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When driving down to and through the 110 miles of the Florida Keys, there seem to be signs soaped onto cars that read, “Key West or Bust!” While Key West is a fantastic destination, if you don’t slow down a little, you’ll miss the jewels that are the other islands that make up the string of the Keys.

One of the best aspects of a road trip – other than the destination itself – is discovering unique, out-of-the-way places that help make the trip memorable. Wherever I go, my favorite finds are diners and restaurants popular with locals, serving fresh food that tastes like it was whipped up especially for me. Without many fast food signs along US 1, I knew the Keys would offer something different around every bend. Here are my suggestions, heading south toward Key West.

A Great Start to the Day
Breakfast at the historical Tavernier Hotel’s Copper Kettle Restaurant (MM 91.8 Oceanside*, Tavernier) is a definite must-do on your way through the Keys. If the weather’s nice – as it usually is – opt to sit outside under the rustling trees to enjoy your meal. The delightful staff will offer freshly squeezed orange juice and coffee to start your meal, and give you plenty of time to absorb the menu to make an informed selection. And it’s not easy! When my meal arrived, I was embarrassed by the size of the enormous omelet I ordered, but was sure to finish every bite.

For lighter fare, stop at Leigh Ann’s Coffee House (MM 51 Oceanside, Marathon). Choose from homemade bagels, croissants, Italian bread and pastries to accompany your cup of coffee, and you’ll be ready to hit the road again.

Blue Heaven (Bahama Village, Key West) is an institution. You’ll want to be sure to get there early to avoid a wait, but even if you arrive later, sit back and relax and soak up the atmosphere. After all, you’re in one of the most laid back places in the country. As you make your way to your table, be careful not to step on the roosters who call Blue Heaven home. The extensive menu offers something for everyone, from omelets to homemade granola to banana pancakes.

One of my favorites that I discovered on my trip to the Keys was Croissants de France (Duval Street, Key West). All of the tables at this delightful European-style eatery are outside under the swaying trees, with the sound of flowing water creating delightful background sounds. The menu invites diners to try galettes, a thin buckwheat crepe primarily served with salty fillings, as opposed to the sweet fillings that are traditionally served with crepes. It is believed that Croissants de France may be the only place this side of the Atlantic to serve galettes. If he is around, be sure to engage owner Patrick Gossweiler in conversation; he’s as interesting and eclectic as his restaurant. If you don’t have time for a full breakfast, line up early with the locals at the storefront to buy fresh croissants, pastries and other goodies to take with you.

Take a Break
Lunch in the Keys can be anything you want it to be. Choose to dine in an elegant restaurant, or sit out on picnic tables and enjoy your meal.

License plates from around the country adorn the walls of Mrs. Macs Kitchen (MM 99.4 Bayside, Key Largo) and make it a great place to stop for a bite to eat. Join the locals and dive into a bowl of seafood pasta or other tasty treats. My cheesesteak sandwich was one of the best I’ve had outside of Philadelphia.

Keep an eye out while cruising down the Overseas Highway for Keys Fisheries Market & Marina (MM 49 Bayside, Marathon) for a meal to remember. The menu is on huge boards hovering over the ordering windows. Take your time to make your decision, and plan to return to sample something else. The fish is off-the-boat-fresh, and prepared to your liking. If you visit in-season, like I did, choose the stone crab claws for a succulent meal.

El Meson de Pepe is a wonderful Cuban restaurant in Mallory Square in the heart of Key West. The expansive menu offers everything from salads to paella, sandwiches to roasted pork, soups to desserts. Energize with a cup of Cuban coffee, or unwind with a mojito, a refreshing concoction of rum, lime juices and sugar. My Cayo Huseso Cuban Mix sandwich was brimming with sugar glazed ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese, pickles, tomatoes and mayonnaise on crisp Cuban bread. Delicious!

Dinner, Anyone?
The Fish House Encore (MM 102.4 Oceanside, Key Largo) is the newly introduced upscale sister to its neighboring restaurant, The Fish House. Sing a song in the bar, dine al fresco under the stars, or order an incredible entrée in the main dining room. With all of these choices, you’ll be sure to find something you will enjoy. I ordered my catch of the day Matecumbe Style – the filet was topped with diced tomatoes, capers, shallots, fresh basil, olive oil and lemon juice. This meal definitely delighted my palate!

Sit under the stars, sip sangria and enjoy the music while enjoying casual dining on fresh seafood at Calypso’s (MM 99.5 Oceanside, Key Largo). This casual eatery offers anything but casual fare. My fish filet was covered in breadcrumbs and sautéed in a delicious wine sauce, made all the more enjoyable by my fun table mates.

The unassuming Duval Beach Club (Key West) overlooks the beach and is a perfect sunset location. Whether you choose to eat indoors or out, this casual restaurant serves up divine dishes. I couldn’t resist starting my meal with coconut shrimp, tempura breaded and friend with a pineapple sauce for dipping. Not knowing how I was going to finish, I went right at my seafood pasta with vigor. The mango cilantro white wine cream sauce complimented the shrimp, sea scallops and crabmeat to perfection; it was all served over tender angel hair pasta.

Pull up a bench at Half Shell Raw Bar (Key West) and let the good times roll. In the open-air atmosphere of this local hangout, everyone’s in a good mood as they order up pitchers of beer, oysters, shrimp, stone crab and other seafood delectables. I enjoyed a tangy conch salad and yet more stone crab claws…I just couldn’t get enough of those seasonable delicacies!

Finishing Up
It doesn’t matter what time it is – no meal is complete without dessert. It’d be a crime to not at least take a bite of Key Lime Pie. Do what I did…try ‘em all at every place you eat. As a friend once told me, calories don’t count after 7 p.m. I wonder if they count on vacation?

Note: All addresses along U.S. 1 in the Keys are denoted by their location in regards to the Overseas Highway. Mile Marker (MM) numbers are given so that travelers can easily find their destinations.